A Senior Citizen's Guide to Bangkok

    Would an octogenarian enjoy, let alone survive swinging Bangkok, and its myriad sights and sounds? Would she cope with the frenetic energy of sprawling Pratunam Market, the bargain-hunter’s paradise criss-crossed by roaring tuktuks? Would she have enough stamina to walk and climb her way to the city’s hundreds of temples? These were the questions that my sisters and I asked each other when we were planning a trip for our mother.

     The short answer would be “yes”. She survived beautifully. In fact, she enjoyed the trip immensely.  All it took was careful planning and a resolve to see the city at a laid back pace and enjoy its mellow side. That way, even my sisters and I returned from the vacation feeling relaxed, instead of vaguely tired as we always do after the usual travel tours crammed with as many sights and activities as possible.

Here is how we did it:

     First, we made sure that Mother wore walking shoes and cool shirts. Next, she had to be well- hydrated. Then, because Bangkok was a mecca for shoppers, we interspersed bits of shopping with the sight-seeing, so that we practically shopped everyday, and yet, did not tire Mother.

Day 1

     We arrived at our Pratunam-area hotel at 3pm.

      After freshening up, we walked to Indra Square, a multi-storey airconditioned building a few meters from our hotel. It housed a food court and several shops selling clothes, accessories, footwear and souvenirs. It was a great alternative to the teeming street market because it was cool and the prices were a lot cheaper than Manila’s. Bargaining is also expected, and as with the street market, you get discounts if you buy 3 of a kind or more. We bought finely embroidered blouses, sequined bags and even belly dancing belts crocheted by the saleslady  herself.

     We took a light snack of Yaki Soba which was surprisingly tangy in a pleasant way. The food court followed a coupon system that contributed to good hygiene as the food attendants did not have to handle money.

     Back in the hotel, we got ready for the Chao Praya Cruise which started at 7:00pm from a city pier. Pretty Thai ladies with orchids in their hair welcomed us with drinks and corsages. They posed for pictures, but only with their official photographer. Later on, we found out that they sold the pictures mounted on frames made of thai cloth.

     We sat near the buffet table arrayed with international and Thai dishes. Crisp, bright green salad vegetables enticed us. The sweet, juicy watermelons, pineapples and papayas burst in our mouths with a refreshing succulence. Mother said they tasted like an eternal summer.

     We sailed along Bangkok’s famed river to the lilting music of a band  dishing out samba, jazz, and even the Filipino  ballad “Anak”. Gentle waves speckled with jewel tones of garnet, sapphire and topaz from the brightly-lit buildings along the riverbank lapped at the ship. We glided by the Wat Arun or Temple of Dawn, which, in its gleaming splendor looked from afar like the Eiffel Tower. The Rama Bridge, with its streaming trusses mimicking spin gold was a sight to behold. The shimmering Grand Palace and the Wat Pra Kaew which housed the Emerald Buddha seemed to wink at us, promising more wondrous sights when we visit them up close later.

     Before we knew it, the cruise had ended. And we did not even have a chance to dance.

Day 2

     Suitably sated with a hearty breakfast that included rice, grilled chicken, ham, and other breakfast staples such as eggs, cereals, pastries, and fruit, we took the half day city tour.

     Our guide told us that she would take us only to the most important temples in Bangkok. First stop was the Temple of the Four-Faced Buddha. The Four-Faced Buddha is really the Hindu god Brahma with four faces and eight hands. He is believed to be a god of creation, mercy, and benevolence. He grants wishes for good luck, good health, good fortune, and love. Our guide said that we must be precise in making our wishes, because the Buddha requires accuracy. “If you want money, you have to say how much, and if you want a boyfriend or husband, you have to describe well,” she said with a twinkle in her eyes.

     “Oh, so I should say I want someone as handsome as Brad Pitt and with as much money as Brad,” I joked.

     The guide said, “Precisely!”

     I stole a sidelong glance at Mother, a certified Catholic Church “Manang”, who heard mass at least once a day. To my relief, she was laughing along.

     The temple air was cool and tinged with the scent of incense. We climbed up the steps to the temple and were instructed to take off our shoes before entering. We were to repeat this for all other temples. Inside, a meditating Buddha was surrounded by intricately painted panels. A good number of people were already sitting cross-legged on the floor. The scent of incense grew stronger. I also sat down and gave gratitude for our safe journey to Bangkok. Mother was admiring the gold ornaments, doubtless taking mental notes for future altar beautification in the Parish church back home.

     Outside the temple, hung rows of bells. A group of students started ringing all the bells, filling the morning air with their rousing peals.  Somehow, this made the experience more intense.

     Next, we went to the Temple of the Golden Buddha in Chinatown. The entrance arch to  Chinatown in red and gold reminded us of the Binondo arch. Legend has it that the ten-foot  tall Buddha, the largest solid gold buddha in the world was hidden beneath plaster by monks to prevent its theft by marauding armies. It was discovered only after an earthquake, when some of the plaster cracked showing the treasure inside.

     The temple housing the 13^th Century Buddha was new. It was topped by a four-storey ziggurat-like building of marble, pristine white with a golden roof and accent details.

      Mother was hesitant about climbing all the way up to the fourth floor, but she finally relented. Upon reaching the top, she said she was glad she made the climb. Just to show you how much stamina she still has. And perhaps some "asim"? Look at the guy on the right. Was he checking her out? Hahaha.

     The chapel itself was not big.  Worshippers knelt or sat in a lotus position on the tan and beige marble floor. A lattice-like pink and green pattern acented the walls, and an arch in gold  leaf framed the Buddha which sat in the lotus position, gazing meditatively in all its golden glory. Pink and white flowers and golden vessels adorned the chapel, their fragrance mingling with the scent of incense.

On the grounds of the temple was a laughing Buddha with a big belly, the one that most Filipinos are familiar with. Upon our guide’s suggestion, each of us rubbed the Buddha’s stomach clockwise three times with our wallets to bring prosperity. Mother said she felt prosperous already because her daughters, who were a parent’s wealth, were with her. Sweet! 

     Next, we went to the gem store where we were treated to a film clip about Thailand’s jewelry industry. Then on to the leather shop. Interestingly, the leather shop carried the American brand Dooney and Bourke at prices comparable to that in the States. Our guide said this was because the leather shop made some of the Dooney and Bourke items. We picked up a few bags, wallets and belts there.

     After the tour, we went by ourselves to the Paragon for lunch and some shopping. Paragon is a modern mall somewhat like Greenbelt. Naturalizer  shoes are a good deal there because there is supposed to be a Naturalizer factory in Thailand as well. 

       The shoe salesman was very patient with Mother and us three sisters that we took a souvenir photo of Mother and him. Next, we went to Discovery Mall and on to MBK for the pasalubongs. MBK is popular with us bargain hunting Filipinos. It is like a vertical Greenhills Shopping Center. On the way, we saw some young ladies giggling and milling around a very handsome man.

     “Hey sis, the Buddha has granted your wish,” one of my sisters said, giving me a nudge.

I looked closely, and instantly recognized the blue eyes and the fashionably stubbled  strong jaw, of  Brad Pitt!

            Or more accurately, an uncannily life-like wax statue of Brad Pitt. Giddy like school girls, we took turns posing with Brad, except for Mother. So we teased her, “Ah, okay, anyway, you had you picture taken with Brad Feet at the Naturalizer shop.

     After shopping, Mother was too tired to have dinner out. So we ordered room service and reviewed the photos of the day.

Day 3

     My sister Lina and I took a quick tour of the Night Market at 6:00am. It was still dark, but a lot of people, mostly bulk buyers and delivery men were up and about. We bought a couple of blouses at incredibly low process.

     For our regular tour, we went to the Grand Palace. It is a marvel that in the heart of Bangkok, an 18^th Century palace still exists with its splendor intact. There were hordes of tourists that day and I was afraid Mother would have a difficult time, but she was okay. Though the King had stopped living that the palace at the turn of the 20^th Century, it is still used for ceremonial occasions.

     The palace itself is a fusion of the East and West, with the bottom part European  in architecture and the top part definitely Thai, resplendant with gold leaf slopes and arches. Since it Thailand’s most sacred place, no shoes, slippers, sandals and revealing tops were allowed inside. My sister Rose who was wearing  leggings was asked to don a sarong skirt before she could enter.

      Verdant, well-tended topiaries surrounded the splendid palace. It was like walking into the set of  “Anna and the King”.

     “We could run into Yul Brynner any moment,” Mother quipped, thinking about the star of the movie,  “The King and I”.

     “I sure hope not,” I said remembering that Yul Brynner was dead.

     Unlike other temples, the Temple of the Golden Buddha located within the palace complex, did not house any monks. Inside the temple surrounded by richly detailed panels, the Emerald Buddha sat atop a series of intricately decorated platforms. The Emerald Buddha, which was really carved out of jadeite, is one of the most revered Buddha images in Thailand. It has three sets of golden garments that are changed according to the seasons as a ritual to bring good fortune. The King himself or his representative presides over this ritual. Like the Golden Buddha, the Emerald Buddha was hidden by monks in plain site in the olden days by covering it with a lesser material, this time, with stucco, to protect it from marauders.

     Outside the temple was an altar with a footed gold colored bowl with holy water. Lotus flowers lay on a golden tray. Custom has it that you dip the flower in the water and sprinkle your head with the water for wisdom and good luck.

     After the tour, we had lunch and then did some more shopping at Central World. Lina got a Longchamps Le Pliage bag for her daughter, but it turned out that the duty free shop in the airport sold the bag at a cheaper price. In fact, the duty free shop price was very close to the price I paid when I got the same bag for my daughter in Basel.

     Before our last dinner in Bangkok, we had traditional Thai massage at the hotel. The pulling and the pressing melted the tenseness from all the walking the past three days and prepared us to lug our now heavier suitcases on the trip home.  As I was telling my sisters, Bangkok to me is a strange Asian city in that there were no porters or bag boys to help. Even in the States, some airports have  skycaps to assist.

On the plane back to Manila, I thought to myself,  Bangkok is a lot like its famous buddhas. Layers of plaster had to be peeled away to uncover the Golden Buddha, and stucco to discover the emerald Buddha. In the same way, the traveler has to look beyond the frenzied energy  of Bangkok to see a laid back side where a senior citizen could see the sights at a leisurely pace and where people still say welcome with a reverential bow and the endearing hand- clasping wai.

     Indeed, in Bangkok, things are not always what they seem. So, prepare to be surprised, and amazed.